On a recent trip to Denmark, Chef Owners Roberth and Andrea Sundell made a stop at the delicious Michelin Star restaurant, Kokkeriet.
The restaurant is small, and located in an unassuming stone building, in a quiet neighborhood near Kongens Have, about 15 minute walking distance from Copenhagen city center. The beauty of the area carries into the restaurant, and is served in style with contemporary Scandinavian design, and most of all, cuisine. With selections that change each season from succulent Spring, light Summer, melancholic Autumn, and warming Winter, the dishes are presented in an elegant yet fun way that satisfies all clientele.
With 11 courses to be had, there is almost no taste unturned. Using traditional Scandinavian culinary ingredients such as beet, cauliflower, as well as salted fish, add to the flavor profile of dill, parsley, pear and lemon.
Starting with a taste of butter mixed with caramel butter, powdered with Spanish chervil, you move into the whole dining experience of gastronomical proportions. Between select courses, snacks are offered, to keep your palate excited for what’s next to come. The palate cleanser served for the evening tastes like pickled cucumbers, and is a mint white chocolate pickle juice.
Course One – rye lumpfish roe butter with cream mushroom powder.
After the first course is a snack consisting of pickled pumpkin ravioli with aioli and aquavit pumpkin seeds and salt. This dish is not a true pasta but quite literally cold raw pumpkin. Absolutely delicious.
Course Two – white asparagus with tarragon oil stuffed with chicken, topped with chicken skin and asparagus puree.
The next snack taste is a virgin shrimp cocktail with a slice of burned lemon in glass, dill oil, shrimp consomme and dressed with seasoned tomato juice.
Course Three – poached kohlrabi served raw with lemon pear verbena powder and scallops. This dish was particularly “YUMMY!”
Snack number four consists of beet cod caper with potato bacon beet root powder.
Course Four – cured beef with pickled onion and pickled cucumber. This dish pairs well with the South African Sauvignon Blanc Kokkeriet serves.
The next snack, the fifth will be, cured veal loin, bone marrow with butter, parsley and salt.
Course Five – light mashed potato with salted fish egg yolk and tarragon, is cooked for three hours at 64 degrees celsius, and topped with a mustard sauce.
By this point, most diners are already feeling well satisfied, but there is still plenty more to come!
Course Six – buttermilk spaghetti with bullion herb with greens. The smoked flavor goes great with the Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir.
Course Seven – shaved raw broccoli and braised lamb with sunflower, shrimp and dill sauce with dill seeds. This also goes well with the Pinot Noir listed above.
Course Eight – braised pork cheek with cabbage, bread crumble and parsley purée. Described by many as the “star of the show”, the sauce consists of a parsley oil with goat cheese.
Course Nine – confit of pigeon breast with cherry glaze licorice.
Course Ten – fennel formage, lemon and fennel sorbet.
Course Eleven – dehydrated carrot cake with a carpet of orange lemon thyme sorbet.
As with all Scandinavian style, a fresh, fun and casual, yet elegant atmosphere is to be had at Kokkeriet. All napkins are folded and placed on the table, standard of Michelin Star service, but keeping with simplicity, the servers keep one hand available to serve, and make connections with their patrons, and shift the dishes on the table as needed, rather than be rigid and mechanical in the likeness of some other Michelin Star restaurants. The experience for guests is rounded out by feeling at home, welcome, in good company, and served well. Diners are treated with the utmost attention, and kindness, and the staff at Kokkiriet, typical of most Scandinavians, is in a word hospitable and proud to be of service.